Jaluit Hospitality

On my recent trip to Jaluit Atoll, the mayor asked ladies from several of the churches on the island to provide us with meals. In addition to the food, the ladies usually offered speeches and sung songs. I can't remember which church this group was from (Assembly of God, maybe?), but they were impressive. Marshallese hospitality is unreal, and I'm totally inspired by the time, effort, thought, and money that everyone put into making our stay comfortable.

Note the dog.

Jaluit, by the way, was incredible. I'll be sure to post photos, but it was a historian/WWII buff/archaeologist/anthropologist's dream with dozens of mostly intact Japanese structures scattered around the islands. Obviously everything is so well preserved because it's so difficult to get to Jaluit, but I almost wish more people could realize what the Marshall's have to offer.

Watch them sing HERE

Sweet Parasite

A Haiku I wrote the other night:

I was wondering
Could it be, you've disappeared?
But then I sharted

English Lessons

I tutor an older Japanese International Cooperation Agency (JICA) volunteer in English twice a week. He is a delight, to say the least. Hardworking, dedicated, personable; I've actually really enjoyed my meager attempt at teaching because of him.

Though I've been in the Marshall Islands for over nine months now, I haven't given away much information about my job, mostly because I'm still confusedly figuring it out. It is unorganized at best. I often feel like a secretary or detective, usually lost somewhere in between unrealistic expectations and translation; a result of our program proprietor's ever changing requirements and my lacking Marshallese language skills. But it's in my power to slowly shape the job into whatever I want it to be; meaning it will always, inevitably be unorganized, but at least it'll keep me interested and busy enough. For example: I just returned from a two-week visit to an outer island in search of unexploded remnants of war; earning a paycheck to go bomb hunting in paradise. Sometimes I actually pinch myself.

The bomb team and I flew from Majuro to Jaluit Atoll on Air Marshall Islands (AMI). Affectionately called “Air Maybe”, AMI operates one 18-passenger plane that is notorious for breaking down and leaving its ticketed passengers stranded. Side note: The Marshall Islands spans an area (land and water included) the size of the continental United States. Think about it. Our one week trip turned into two when the “plane broke” and failed to retrieve and deliver us back to Majuro. After the surprise bonus week of unfulfilled promises to us from AMI, complete with three consecutive 5:00 a.m. airport trips, we opted for the boat. 17 hours it took. SEVENTEEN complete rotations of the clock accompanied by constant 36-foot waves. A less than desirable combo in my opinion. Had I known how horrid the ride would be I would have gladly stayed another month in Jaluit waiting for the plane. Or more. Thankfully, I don't get seasick, unlike most of the other passengers, unfortunately. Some things you just can't unsee. Regurgitated Spam and rice on the boat deck for example, aren't my favorite things to look at; their images however, are burned into my memory for time and eternity.

Upon returning to Majuro, I was welcomed with a slew of emails and text messages from the man I tutor. The messages expressed his concern for my unexplained absence, and questioned the date of our next session. Selfishly, lazily, plain old rudely, I failed to contact him until today, four days after my return, and only after two texts and three calls in a row from him early this morning. Our text conversation went as follows:


Me: “Hey G-- San. I just got back this past weekend. We were stuck for an extra week because the plane broke. Would you like to start class again today?”

Him: “Hello! Matt if you are OK, I will start class from today.”

Me: “OK, see you later.”

--Two hours later--

Him: “Hey Matt I'm sorry sent you mail many times now are you day off? If you so today's lesson cancel don't you? Probably you are very tired.”

Me: “I'm fine. We can do it today or whenever is best for you.”

Him: “I'm OK which tomorrow, next or next week. After restore your vitality let's start lesson! Sorry I'm thoughtless.”


And my heart broke. Thoughtless? Him? As a token of his appreciation the man gifts me fish jerky each session, for crying out loud. Hi, my name is Matt Riding, and I'm a certifiable b-hole.

RMI MD

Today is momentous. For the first time since the infamous scabies outbreak of 2007, I visited a doctor.

And I'm not even sick.

Eichelbergenstein

Here's a classic of Kimberly sleeping soundly in a sweaty Indian hostel. My top 3 favorite things about this pic? 3) Her own sheet on top of the bedding (a savvy traveler indeed); 2) The "I've-traveled-to-Asia-pants" (combined we probably bought 20 pair); 1) Obviously. Her hand is down her "I've-traveled-to-Asia-pants" (what can I say? The lady knows comfort). Amazing.

Precious Moments

Inappropriate movie theater and food experiences that Kimberly Eichelberger and I have shared throughout the years:


1. We were students in Hawaii, and every fortnight or so Kimmy and I would manage the trek from Laie to Kaneohe to feast on pho at our favorite Vietnamese dive. No problem, a bowl of pho, though massive, is a socially acceptable meal. Social acceptability quickly began to sour however, once we discovered how succulent the doughnuts next door at Kaneohe Bakery were. Two doughnuts a piece became the set standard after each pho run. The problem zone hadn't fully been entered until a decision was made that we couldn't leave town without first stopping at Jamba Juice. For a small fruit smoothie perhaps? Just a sip to cleanse the pallet? Never. We (or at least I) went for the beastly 20-something-ounce Peanut Butter Moo'd. Let's just call it what it is: a giant-size milkshake. I mean, part of its name is "Moo".

One sad, lonesome Valentines Day we (and some others) bought all the above to-go (plus a Coke, I'm sure), positioned it conspicuously into Kim's purse (duffel bag?), and sneaked it into the theater where we dined while watching Tyler Perry's "Daddy's Little Girls".

Depressed yet?

2. 2010's "Lottery Ticket". Yes, we paid money to watch it. Yes, I've seen it twice. Yes, it stars Bow Wow (the artist formerly known as Lil Bow Wow) and Loretta Devine. Yes, it would be the perfect movie if Madea would make an appearance. We were in San Diego, and yes, we sneaked Vietnamese baguette sandwiches into the theater. The theater was obviously dark and Kimmy took a bite without realizing that jalapenos were a main topping. The reaction made my life.

3. My favorite food is fried chicken. I like it golden, crispy, greasy, salty. Popeye's, yes. KFC, absolutely. But if you're really looking to tickle my fancy, forget the fancy buckets and boxes and hook your brother up with an 8-piece bag from the Albertson's deli. And I know I'm not alone, Alby's chicken has an upstanding reputation of perfection.

I traded Flagstaff for a warm weekend in Phoenix. Kimmy and I were on our way to a movie and naturally, we craved fried chicken. An Albertson's happened to be in the neighborhood and we bought a bag. Somehow we ended up with our fried chicken watching "Precious". Apparently we're inadvertent racists, Oops.

Until now I didn't realize how much we enjoy movies intended for a Black audience. J/K, I totally did.

Havasupai

 

Took a trip to the Havasupai Indian Reservation in the Grand Canyon last weekend with a couple friends. A camera obviously can't do the place justice, but hopefully you get an idea for how incredibly unique and beautiful this place is.

Hobby #1

Maybe it's not so much a hobby as it is a necessary natural bodily function. If you know me well you know I can't burp. I just can't. Semi-annually a mini burp sneaks up on me; it's a big deal celebrated with a mass text to friends, a call to my mom, a redbox movie, and a steak dinner.

This, I've decided, is my summer. My summer to unite myself with the other 7 billion humans on Earth, and learn to burp.

But I can't go it alone. I'll need your support, some guidance, and maybe a prayer.

now and future

I admitted my graduation. Now a follow up confession: I miss school. I know, I'm sick. It's just that grad school overwhelmed my life for two years unlike anything else--'cept my mission--and I've realized I'm not over it. Though I was stressed, sleep deprived, without friends, and conscious thanks only to a steady diet of fast food and Diet Coke, I feel like I actually miss the insane amount of reading and writing. I plan to apply for a PhD program within the year.

The crazy thing is that a PhD in anthropology takes an average of seven+ years.

Meanwhile, I have a job. I conduct research, evaluating a statewide initiative that involves school readiness for young kids. I travel throughout Northern Arizona and interview stakeholders and parents. I analyze what they tell me and help compose reports and provide suggestions to the state. I am an applied anthropologist and feel lucky to have a job in my field, but frankly, I'm bored. I'm not motivated by educational anthropology and selfishly can't wait to get back to researching topics directly in line with my interests and curiosities.

Which are what? Food and... well, mostly just food. Producing it, processing it, distributing it, and of course, eating it.

Most of the last year was spent developing my thesis, which focused primarily on the relationship between food and cultural identification. My work was based on insights from an internship I conducted last summer at an urban farm for migrants and refugees in San Diego. I would like to continue similar work and eventually teach anthropology at a university.

Arizona has been good to me and I'll enjoy another year here. Come Fall 2012 though, I'll happily move on. Oregon, Hawaii, Indiana? Shoot, I'll join any program that wants me! (hopefully some program out there will...). Until then I plan to fill my free time with a pile of new hobbies that I haven't thought of yet. Suggestions?

return

I think I'm ready to emerge from retirement. But only to report two things: 1) I graduated (please call me "master" from here on out); and 2) I impulsively bought a ticket to Bangkok last night. I leave October 12 for three weeks and tentatively plan to wander around Thailand, Cambodia and Laos. And I haven't told my boss.